The challenges and solutions of bleaching in hairdressing

Hair bleaching is a very popular service in hairdressing, but at the same time it is one of the most complex procedures, requiring thorough professional knowledge, experience, appropriate professional materials and technical equipment. This procedure not only allows for spectacular transformations, but also carries a number of challenges that professionals have to cope with. In this article, we will present in detail the most common problems that arise during bleaching, as well as the recommended professional solutions for them.

1. Assessing and protecting the initial condition of the hair

Challenge:

One of the most important steps is to assess and diagnose the initial condition of the hair before starting any chemical treatment. Is it natural or has it been chemically treated? For example, severely damaged or weak hair may not be able to withstand bleaching, especially bleaching with bleaching powder - and improper treatment can cause permanent damage. During bleaching, the natural (and/or artificial) pigments of the hair are removed, which can also lead to a weakening of the hair structure.

Solution:

• Condition Assessment: Testing the thickness, condition, and porosity of the hair is mandatory. This includes checking the elasticity and hydration of the hair.
• Use of treatment products: During the bleaching process, use a bond repairer or products based on similar technology. These help to restore the disulfide bonds in the hair. Many modern hair color products already contain active ingredients that protect and rebuild the hair structure during the chemical process.

Tip: e.g.: ETB ColorVerse hair dyes contain many valuable active ingredients – such as: vegetable keratin, shea butter, goji berry extract, betaine, coconut oil, several types of protein  ( arginine, serine, threonine) nourishes and protects hair during hair coloring.

• Preparatory treatments: If the hair is too damaged, preliminary regenerating and structural rebuilding treatments are necessary. This can be a moisturizing, protein replacement or keratin treatment.

2. Determine your desired hair color goal

We clarify with the guest what their chosen hair color goal is, and explain to them that this how many steps it can be achieved in, what treatment procedure is justified for this, and what is the expected cost of all this.

3. Achieving uniform color

We need to determine how many levels of lightening are needed: we need to compare the starting hair color with the desired hair color, taking into account the quality of the hair. For example, if the starting color depth is 6 and the target hair color is 11, then we need to consider how to perform a 5-level lightening.

If you only need to dye your hair 2-3 shades lighter, then using a "normal" hair dye is sufficient.

If the desired hair color goal is 3-4 shades lighter , then we need to use super-lightening hair dyes, the use of which is different from the use of "normal" hair dyes!

Did you know? The mixing ratio of ETB ColorVerse super bleach (BB0, BB1, BB2, BB91, BB19 is 1:2, and we work with a 12% developer. The specialty of super bleaches is that these substances work on the hair until we rinse them off, so we have to constantly keep an eye on our guest's hair to see where the bleaching process is going.

If our task is to lighten more than 4 shades , the use of bleaching products (bleaching powder, bleaching cream) is inevitable.

Before using bleaching powder, we must also consider the thickness and quality of the guest's hair: on thick, normal and/or natural hair, we work according to the mixing ratios generally given in the instructions for use (usually 1:2 with 6% developer), however, in the case of thin and/or porous hair, a gentler procedure is necessary: ​​in this case, it is advisable to use a bleaching powder with a lower concentration:  3% - or even 1.5% (!) - but in this case we leave the mixture on the hair for a much longer time. In order to achieve the desired color, we repeat the procedure in several passes, either immediately after each other or with a time delay, calling the guest back several times.

Challenge:

Both natural and dyed hair can contain multiple color tones, which can cause uneven results when bleaching. At the root about 1.5 cm of hair It lightens faster than the ends of the hair because it is closer to the warmth of the scalp. In addition, the color of dyed hair (artificial pigments) is more difficult to completely remove, which can result in patchy color.

The first bleaching on natural/undyed hair is done by first applying the dye-developer mixture to the lengths and ends of the hair, and then to the roots after allowing time to act. Due to the heat of the scalp, leave the roots until the very end.

Bleaching dyed hair : in this case, we start with the roots, then work on the length and ends of the hair. We choose the technique, material and exposure time depending on the difference in color depth between the starting and desired hair color.

Solution:

• Application in sections: The bleaching product should be applied in sections, first to the ends and mid-lengths of the hair, then to the roots.
• Different strengths of bleach: It is advisable to use a different strength of bleach mixture for the roots and ends to achieve a perfect and uniform color result.
• Different hair thicknesses: we use a different strength bleaching agent blend for thick, normal and thin hair
• We can achieve the same bleaching color result in different ways, depending on the quality of the hair, e.g. by using a weaker developer and a longer exposure time, in the case of thin porous hair, we can achieve the desired bleaching base with up to 1.5% developer and an extended exposure time
• Treatment of pigment residues: If we see unwanted pigments (orange or yellowish) in the hair after bleaching, we can compensate for them with toning: by correctly selecting a complementary color containing blue or purple pigment, we can neutralize them for the right color result!

Don't forget : the The orange undertone occurring in color depths 6-7-8 can be neutralized with blue pigments, and the yellowish undertone remaining in color depths 7-8-9-10 can be neutralized with purple pigments.  (we recommend e.g. blue and purple boosters). The metallic shade unfolds most beautifully in the 10-11-12 color depth, to tone it we use the graphite booster.

3. Choosing the right bleaching agent and technique

Challenge:

Not all bleaching techniques are suitable for all hair types or for achieving the desired results. For example, compared to full bleaching, highlights (e.g. babylights, balayage technique, etc.), requires a different approach. Using inappropriate materials or techniques will most likely not produce the expected results and customer satisfaction!

Solution:

• Material selection: Choose a bleaching powder and oxidant according to the condition of the hair and the desired color. A weaker oxidant (for example 3%, but even 1.5%!!!) is suitable for more subtle lightening, while a stronger one (6% or 9%) is suitable for more intense results.
• Trial bleaching: For all guests and hair types that are unknown to us, it is worth performing a trial on a small strand of hair before starting work, so that the expected result can be predicted based on the reaction of the given hair. For new guests, do not forget to perform a skin test to rule out allergies.
• Modern technologies: Modern bleaches contain ingredients that minimize hair damage. It is worth choosing such professional products.

 

Did you know? ETB Bright Blonde Plex 9 is a bleaching powder containing gray micropigments, enriched with a plex, i.e. bonding strengthening formula, and in addition  The following valuable ingredients protect the health of hair:

·        Wheat protein strengthens hair fibers, improves hair texture, and helps retain moisture.

·        Silk protein hydrates and smoothes hair, contributing to a shiny appearance.

·        Guar gum stabilizes the formula, increasing the adhesion of the bleaching agent to the hair, ensuring easy and even application. Recommended for all types of techniques, especially manual ones.

 

 ETB Bright Blonde 7 bleaching powder contains the following valuable ingredients:

·        Wheat protein, which strengthens hair fibers, improves hair texture and helps retain moisture, thus reducing breakage and possible brittleness.

·        Silk protein hydrates and smoothes hair, contributing to a shiny appearance.

·        Guar Gum: Stabilizes the formula and increases the adhesion of the material to the hair, ensuring easy application and even application, especially recommended for manual techniques!

 

Tip:
If you want to lighten your hair by four or more shades, do not use strong cream bleach to avoid damaging your hair, but follow the steps below:
Principle: We can modify three shades in one step!

-        mix the bleaching powder with 3% cream hydrogen, apply to the hair, wait for the end of the working time

-        prepare a new mixture of bleaching powder and 3% cream hydrogen and apply it to the mixture on the hair without washing it off ! This activates the previously applied substance, the bleaching process and the exposure time start again! This step can be done up to three times without damaging the hair!

It is advisable to inform the guest in advance about the increased time and material consumption - and the resulting increase in costs - to avoid later inconvenience.

Important! When using strong cream hydrogen, the lightening effect occurs quickly, the bleaching base stops at about 8-9 color depth, because the hair is "shocked" as heat is generated, so the yellow color is "burned into" the hair, which cannot be corrected with any bleaching technique! This must be avoided at all costs!

4. Time management and process monitoring

Challenge:

Bleaching is a time-consuming process and the result depends significantly on the exact observance of chemical reactions, exposure times, and even the temperature of the room where the chemical process is performed.  At room temperature, the substance works according to the normal exposure time, but in a cooler place it works more slowly, and by using air conditioning (heat effect) the exposure time can be significantly shortened. Leaving the bleach on the hair for too long or using too strong a bleaching cream can cause damage, while rinsing it out too soon will not achieve the desired lightening.

Solution:

• Timing: For all bleaching processes, the time specified in the material's instructions for use must be strictly adhered to.
• Continuous monitoring: During the process, the degree of lightening of the hair should be regularly monitored. This is especially important if you are bleaching in several stages.
• Multi-stage bleaching: If the desired result requires drastic lightening, it should be divided into several sessions. This reduces the risk of hair damage.

 

5. Aftercare and maintenance

Challenge:

Bleached hair is particularly sensitive to external influences such as heat, humidity or environmental pollutants. Guests often fail to properly maintain their bleached hair, which can lead to rapid fading and damage.

Solution:

• Home care tips: We recommend products specifically designed for bleached hair, such as purple/silver/no-yellow toning shampoos and deep moisturizing masks.
• Regular salon treatments: It's a good idea to offer guests regular salon services, such as hair strengthening treatments or color refreshes.
• UV protection: Bleached hair is particularly sensitive to UV radiation, so we remind guests of the importance of sun protection.

 

Closing thoughts

The key to success in bleaching hair is proper preparation, well-chosen technology and materials, and aftercare. Despite the challenges, a well-trained hairdresser can create beautiful, healthy-looking bleached hair. Communication with guests is very important, we would like to draw their attention to the fact that if you want blonde hair, you will have to make more regular and frequent salon visits than before, and follow a more thorough and professional recommended home hair care procedure.

Bleaching is not just a technical task, but also an art that requires precision and passion. The hairdressing profession is constantly evolving, and bleaching is no exception. Understanding and mastering new technologies and trends is key to ensuring that salon guests receive the best.

 The Art of Bleaching Hair: Tips from Master Hairdressers for Successful Bleaching

Hair bleaching is one of the biggest challenges in the hairdressing profession, as it is where technical knowledge, creativity and precise execution meet. If I could give advice to my colleagues as a master hairdresser, I would emphasize the following principles. The goal is not only to achieve an impressive result, but also to keep the client's hair healthy and make them satisfied and confident in the long term.

If you would like to acquire more professional knowledge and practical master techniques as a hairdresser, we look forward to seeing you at our hairdressing workshops. You can find the dates of the trainings in the hairdressing courses menu, or click here.